An onyx stage catches fire and three performers, silhouetted in the blaze, begin to sing from behind the flames. You can hear Kanye West’s voice, but you can’t make out his face. The first glimpse of him, poking out of the fire, is a shoe.
But not just any shoe: specifically, a white Adidas Ultra Boost, which until this moment—the Billboard Music Awards in May 2015—has never been worn in public.
West begins his next song and leaps through the flames. He’s dressed all in black except for the two white Ultra Boosts, which hang in the air like Nike Internationalist Mujer exclamation points. “What happens next? Every single store that had [Ultra Boosts] cleared out within the hour,” says Yu-Ming Wu, founder of shoe-culture network Sneaker News, with only a touch of hyperbole.
Hype man: Kanye West’s debut of the Nike Air Max 2016 Womens white Adidas Ultra Boost during a series of performances in spring 2015 led to a sales frenzy. [Photo: Tim Mosenfelder/Getty Images]
Never mind that the flames weren’t real, or that, after more than a decade as the second-largest sports brand in the U.S., Adidas had recently fallen behind Under Armour, whose CEO, Kevin Plank, had called the German brand his “dumbest competitor.”
Adidas—with West—had created a moment. Wu compares it to Michael Jordan’s 1988 dunk from the free throw line, which made a legend out of Nike’s Air Jordan III: West’s fiery Ultra Boost debut turned Adidas’s Boost technology Vans Old Skool Mujer into a cultural touchstone.
By fall 2016, Adidas had overtaken Under Armour. The company’s North American revenue soared by 30% from 2015 to 2016, with sales of Ultra Boosts leaping 98%. And while Adidas doesn’t break out many specific Nike Air Max Thea Womens numbers, the company credits Ultra Boosts for much of its recent growth. Indeed, the emergence of the line—and Adidas’s ongoing relationship with West (which includes the singer’s Yeezy-branded Boost shoes and apparel)—reflects a strategy that the German sportswear company has been developing for several years, one that relies on celebrities as much as athletes.
With only one-quarter of the American public buying sneakers for their intended athletic use, according to market-research firm NPD Group, Adidas has been turning to cultural influencers as partners, dropping new shoe styles with increasing Adidas Gazelle Mujer speed. This spring, fashion designer Alexander Wang released two capsule collections of his AW Run shoes in as many months. Music impresario Pharrell Williams churns out regular iterations on his blocky, Lego-esque NMD line, which sold Nike Air Max Thea Damen almost a half-million units online and in stores in a single day in March 2016, with people lining up outside of retail locations from Bangkok to New York. And West has now created six models for the Boost brand. (The NMD and Boost lines have become so popular with sneakerheads that Daishin Sugano, cofounder of the shoe resale app Goat, reports that Adidas climbed Nike Air Force 1 Donna from just 10% of his sales to almost 40% in two years.) These kinds of collaborations—along with Adidas’s own in-house efforts—represent a bold departure for the company, which is now treating shoes as fast fashion: stylish, responsive Asics Gel Lyte 5 Damen to trends, and engineered to hit the market quickly.
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